Patek Philippe Calatrava officer’s watch Ref. 5153J

Officer’s watches occupy a special position among Patek Philippe timepieces. At Basel 2009 Ia new officer’s watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava officer’s watch Ref. 5153J, joins the Calatrava lineup of watches. A successor to the Ref. 5053. The Ref. 5153 merges the officers case with a dial similar in design to Patek Philippe's more contemporary Calatrava watches, the Ref. 5196 and the second generation 5296.

Patek Philippe Calatrava officer’s watch Ref. 5153J. The Ref. 5153 uses an Officer's watch case. The rounded bezel and elegant knurled turban-style crown of the watch are of traditional military shape, similar to that found in the Ref. 5159. Like the Ref. 5159, case features a hinged cover that protects the case back that symbolically nods to the cases protecting trench watches. The design of the so-called officer’s watch was born when small pocket watches with hinged backs were converted into handy wristwatches during World War I.


The case of the Ref. 5153 is the case is made of 18K yellow gold. The case is 38 millimeters in diameter, which is 2.4 millimeters larger than its predecessor, the Ref. 5053. Like other watchmakers, Patek Philippe has been updating its collection with watches of an ever so slightly larger diameter to meet modern demands. Still at 38 millimeters it is an elegant watch, and maintains a classic look, setting it appart from the field of ever increasing watch sizes we see today.


The officers case. An officer’s case calls for the ultimate in craftsmanship. From the mirror-polished, rounded bezel to the hinge for the cover that protects the screwed case back with the sapphire window. The hinged case back is so finely alinged that when the cover is closed, only a hairline joint and the small lip suggest that it is indeed hinged. It can be opened with a fingernail at the unobtrusive cover lip.

The gap must be exactly the same width along the entire circumference, without even the slightest play. The watch is not considered finished until snapping the cover shut tresults in a clean and solid click. Only the most talented casemakers can adjust the hinge to make the hinged back mate with the case contours to hundredths of a millimeter. Only then will it click shut with the right sound. Apart from perfection in craftsmanship, this work also calls for ample patience. The casemaker and the polisher normally require nearly two days to complete this challenging task.


Sunburts dial. The craftmanship extends to the dial . The Ref. 5153 features a hand-guilloched sunburst pattern in the center, bordering on a small golden cartouche which displays the arched PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE signature in black. Small gilt minute pearls encircle the periphery of the dial. The hour markers are faceted, arrow-shaped gold appliques. The large date aperture at 3 o'clock has a polished gold frame. Two crisply faceted Dauphine hands track the course of time in hours and minutes on this stage, accompanied by a slender seconds hand that extends to the fringe of the dial and carries a wide counterweight at its shorter end.

Movement. Movement. Inside case sits the Caliber 324 S C movement. This self-winding movement is endowed with a unidirectionally winding central rotor in heavy 21K gold and beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Properly maintianed this movement is gauranteed to keep time with an accuracy of -3 and +2 seconds per day, a specification that applies to all of Patek Philippe’s mechanical movements. Notably, this specification is twice as stringent as the requirement for COSC certified watches called chronometers.

When the hinged back is open, the movement can be admired though the screwed case back with the sapphire window.

About Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe & Co. was founded in Switzerland in 1851. It is acknowledged as one of the finest watchmaking companies in the world.