The History of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner (1953 to 2012)

I'm often asked, "which Rolex should I buy?" If you plan on buying one and only one Rolex, this is the one to buy. It is without question the most popular of the sport models, and about the most versatile model Rolex sells. --- John B. Holbrook, II of the Rolex Reference Page.

This article was originally posted on April 30, 2008. This article has been updated to include the revisions in the submariner in the past four years as well as adding more general information.

The first Submariner

First Submariners. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner went into production in 1953. It was first introduced to the public in the Swiss Watch Fair of 1954 (Ref. 6204 and 6205). It featured a rotating bezel with 5 minute markers, and ushered in a new look for Rolex. In 1954, the distinctive "Mercedes" hands were added to all Submariners.

The Submariner look, later adopted by the Rolex GMT Master and Rolex Yatchmaster, is a design commonly  associated with Rolex. The basic Submariner design is so popular it has become the basis for almost all the divers watches in the world.

The iconic Submariner design did take inspiration from another watch. In fairness, though the original Submariner design was based on a specifications made in 1952 by two French naval officers, Commander Robert Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud who were tasked with setting up a special operations unit of the French Navy, specializing in underwater operations. These two officers needed a watch for their divers, and not finding one on the market suitable, contacted Blancpain Rayville SA, in Villeret, Switzerland. Together they created the the Fifty Fathoms. The Rolex Submariner, takes it design ques from this watch.


From 180 meters to 300 meters. The Submariner was built for diving. The early Submariners had water resistance ratings of 180 meters (Ref. 62xx). There is some doubt as to whether these early Submariners met their stated ratings.

In 1955, after just two years in production the first Submariner models were replaced by the Ref. 6536 (Small Crown) and 6538 (Large Crown) Submariners, with water resistance ratings of 100 and 200 meters, respectively. The watches featured Rolex's Cal. 1030 movements with improved rotors which could wind the watch rotating while in either direction. The Ref. 6536 and 6538 were later certified as chronometers. The Ref. 6536 was renamed 6536-1 while the 6538 retained its number. In 1958 the Ref. 6536-1 and 6538 were replaced with the Ref. 5508 and 5510 with the same water resistance ratings as their predecessors.

In 1959 Rolex released the Ref. 5512. Submariner and in 1962 released the Ref. 5513 submariner. Both submariners now sported the big crown and had "shoulders" to protect the crown. The difference in reference numbers was that the Ref. 5512 was certified as a chronometer while the Ref. 5513 was not. These watches both had water resistance rating of 200 meters. Unlike the early Submariners, the Ref. 5512 and 5513 had long production lives. The 5512 remained in production for nearly twenty years, until 1978, while the 5513 stayed in production till 1990.

Late Model 5513 Submariner

In 1965, Rolex released the Ref. 1680, the first Submariner Date, which was essentially a Ref. 5512 Submariner with a date display. The Ref. 16800 Submariner Date was introduced in 1977 featuring a sapphire crystal glass and a water resistance rating of 300 meters. This was the last improvement in the water resistance rating of the Submariner to date.

A Ref. 16610 Submariner

In 1989, Rolex released the Ref. 16610 Submariner Date and Ref. 14060 Submariner, which was the first Submariners with movements which generated 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph). Movements in previous models produced 21,600 vph. Notably only the Ref. 16610 Submariners are certified by the COSC as chronometers. The non-date Ref. 14060 are not.

The Ref. 14060 Submariner remained in production till 1999, when it was replaced by the Ref. 14060M Submariner, which had an improved movement movement. However, it was not COSC certified. In 2007, some of the later production Ref. 14060M's were sent to COSC for certification, the first non-date Submariners to be certified as chronometers since the 5512 stopped production in 1978.


In 2003 a all stainless steel Submariner with a green bezel was issued to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the watch.


The Comex connection. In 1961, the COMPAGNIE MARITIME D'EXPERTISE', or COMEX, was formed by its President Henri Delauze in Marseille France. The company specialized in industrial deep sea diving. From 1970 until 1997, Rolex diver watches were the issued to COMEX divers. This partnership between Rolex and Comex led to evolutionary developments in diving watches.

In order to carry out their work, COMEX divers spent prolonged periods in diving bells under pressure breathing a gas mix that contains helium. Helium molecules are the second smallest found in nature an thus works its way even water resistant watches. When a diver resurfaces, the helium which built up inside the watch starts to expand quicker than it can escape, leading to an increase in pressure inside the watch. The pressure in the watch would blow the crystal straight out of the case.

In collaboration with COMEX, Rolex developed a helium gas release valve. This would allow the built up helium gases to escape. The first watch Rolex developed for COMEX was a Submariner Ref. 5513 outfitted with a helium gas release valve. In 1972, Rolex built the Ref. 5514 exclusively for COMEX.

In 1977, a new Submariner was developed for COMEX with a 600 m. water resistance rating. This became known as the Rolex Sea Dweller. Until 1997, Comex divers were equipped with an assortment of Rolex watches, the Sea Dwellers were used on "saturation" dives while the Submariners both date and non date were issued for use in "atmospheric" dives.

The current Submariners. In 2008 Rolex released the new Ref. 116618 and Ref. 116619 Submariner, in yellow gold and white gold, respectively. The new model incorporated a series of changes:

1. CERACHROME Bezel. The new Submariners sport a new ceramic bezel made of the same material used in the GMT Master II released in 2005. The new bezel replaces the older aluminum bezel. The ceramic bezel is reportedly very scratch resistant.
2. MAXI Dial. I am not a fan of the Maxi dial. Basically, fatter hands and larger indices/markers. The Maxi dial was first seen in the Rolex Yatchmaster.
3. SUPER Case. Wider lugs and probably a slightly larger dial just like the GMT Master II released in 2005.
4. Glidelock Clasp. A new clasp similar to that used in the Rolex Daytona and GMT Master II but allowing for easy small adjustments in size.

The Glide Lock Clasp

In 2009, the bi-metal Rolex Submariners received the same updates as the all gold version with the Ref. 116613.

A new Ref. 116610 Submariner

In 2010, the CERACHROME bezel, maxi dial, super case and glide lock clasp made their way to the all stainless steel Submariners with the new Ref. 116610.  What was left out from the migration was the "no-date"Submariner. But in 2012, a new 114060 was released brought the updates the no-date Submariner.

Submariner in Hollywood. The Rolex Submariner is probably best known for being the original 007 watch. However it was seen on the wrist of other actors in several other movies: Roger Moore (North Sea Hijack [1975]); Robert Redford (All the President's Men [1976]), Nick Nolte (The Deep [1977]), Donal Sutherland (The Disappearance [1977]); Robert De Niro (Deer Hunter [1978]), Steve McQueen (The Hunter [1980]); Mel Gibson (Tequila Sunrise [1988]); Kevin Spacey (Outbreak [1995]); Denzel Washington (Courage Under Fire [1996]); Bill Paxton (Titanic [1998]): and Cameron Diaz (Knight and Day [2010]).

About Rolex. Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches and accessories founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing over 2000 watches per day. Rolex is the best known and most sought after watch brand in the world.