BaselWorld 2013: OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT GoodPlanet

Planet Ocean. OMEGA's Seamaster Planet Ocean series of watches needs little introduction. Ever since being adopted as the new Bond watch in Quantum of Solace, it is probably one of the most easily recognizable OMEGA watch models.

OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT GoodPlanet. The Seamaster Planet Ocean is a divers watch, with a 600 meter water resistance rating and a helium gas escape valve which is needed by deep sea divers.  The new variant released at BaselWorld 2013 also includes a dual time function, with a second orange hour hand which rotates once every 24 hours and is read in conjunction with the rotating outer bezel. This will allow you to keep track of a second, and even third time zone. The watch has a 43.5 mm case and comes in either a steel bracelet or blue rubber strap. 

Inside is a OMEGA Co-Axial calibre 8605, a self-winding movement with a three-level Co-Axial escapement and Si14 silicon balance spring. The design reduces wear and tear and to back up its claim, OMEGA offers the watch with a full four-year warranty.

GoodPlanet Foundation. What makes this watch particularly interesting is that it is issued in support of the GoodPlanet foundation. A portion of the proceeds of the sale of each OMEGA Seamaster Planet Ocean GMT GoodPlanet will go towards the protection of mangroves and seagrasses in South East Asia. A good reason to buy this watch I would think. 

About Omega SA. The forerunner of Omega was founded 1848, by Louis Brandt. The name Omega was first used in 1894. It was used as the name of one of the Louis Brandt brother’s watch movement calibers.

BaselWorld 2013: Rolex GMT Master II Ref. 116710BLNR

Taking flight. Pan Am asked Rolex to develop a watch which allow pilots to keep track of time in two locations. Pan Am's team was led by Fredrick Libby, and Rolex's team was led Rene P. Jeanneret. The team came up with the idea of a watch with an additional independent hour hand revolving just once every 24 hours and a rotatable bezel with 24 one-hour markers. The main hour hand rotating one every 12 hours would be read in conjunction with the 12 hour markers on the dial, while the second hour hand, rotating once every 24 hours would be read in conjunction with the 24 hour markers in the bezel. The bezel could be rotated to quickly change the time zone of the 24 hour hand. 

With that, the Rolex GMT Master was born in born in 1955.

Pepsi and Coke. The GMT Master initially came with a red and blue colored Bake-Lite bezel, which was later changed to an aluminum bezel. Red represented daylight hours, while black represented nighttime hours. A second color scheme became available, which consisted of red and black. These color schemes earned the nickname the Pepsi and Coke.

When Rolex introduced a new GMT Master II, with a ceramic or CERACHROM bezel, the new technology did not allow for the bezel to have two colors and maintain it as a single piece.  So in 2007, Pepsi and Coke faded into history. giving way to an all black bezel.

At Baselworld 2013, Rolex re-introduced the two color dial to the GMT Master II. 

Rolex GMT Master II. The new stainless steel GMT Master II is identical to the previous models released since 2007. t\The watch is still 40 mm in diameter and powered by the tried and tested Rolex Caliber 3186 movement. The only difference being a bi-colored bezel. But to many, that will make a world of difference.

The bezel is now available in a black and blue combination. 

Pepsi and Coke are still not back, but at least now you can choose Pepsi Max.

About Rolex. Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches and accessories founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing over 2000 watches per day. Rolex is the best known and most sought after watch brand in the world.

IWC Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium Ref. 3264

One of the more interesting releases from IWC at SIHH 2013 this year is the Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium. It is my favorite watch among the 2013 IWC releases. I do wonder of IWC has taken the correct track in marketing this device, and there is one flaw shared among dual time watches which could have been corrected, which would have made this watch truly amazing.

Formula One? Melbourne, Abu Dhabi, Monza, São Paulo, Kuala Lumpur: 20 times a year, the international Formula One cavalcade moves from one racing circuit to the next, at locations all over the planet. 

While a dual time watch can be useful for a person who follows the formula one races around the world, it seems like a bit of a stretch marking this as a "Formula One" aficionados watch. I would think that a racing fan would pick a Chronograph watch or at least one with a racing inspire design. 

Jet setting executives are more likely to pick something with a more formal leather strap, or even a dual time watch with a steel bracelet. The Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium should probably have been marketed as an explorers watch. 

Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium Ref. 3264. The Ingenieur Dual Time Titanium follows the classic dual time watch design. It has a dial with two hour hands. One rotates every 12 hours, which is more useful for keeping track of time in your current time zone. A second hour hand rotates once every 24 hours, and thus displays not only the time in a different time zone, but whether it is day or night as well. 

The first (12-hour) is adjusted in one hour steps relative to the position of the 24 hour hand. This is a nice feature unless you live in a time zone where local time is not offset is not in full hours like Afghanistan (UTC +3:30), the Chatam Islands (UTC +5:45), the Cocos Islands (UTC +6:30), India (UTC +5:30), Iran (UTC +3:30),  Lord Howe Island (UTC +10:30), Myanmar (UTC +6:30),  Nepal (UTC +5:45), Shri Lanka (UTC +5:30), Venezuela (UTC -4:30). A better solution would have been to have the 12-hour hand adjustable in steps of 15-minutes, or 30-minutes, the latter leaving only those in the Chatam Islands and Nepal unsatisfied.

In addition to time, the grey dial displays the date in a small window at the 3 o'clock position. The case of the watch is 45 mm larger, but being built on titanium, it should feel relatively light on the wrist. The watch is supplied with a black rubber strap.

About IWC. IWC or the the "International Watch Co. Schaffhausen" was founded by an American engineer from Boston, Florentine Ariosto Jones, in Schaffhausen, Switzerland in the year 1868. IWC Schaffhausen is notable for being the only major Swiss watch factory located in eastern Switzerland, as the majority of the well-known Swiss watch manufacturers are located in western Switzerland.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 w & bk pictures

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

 should be made without permission from the source.

JK Watchstore, who graciously allows us to use their pictures in this blog, has the new Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570 with a white dial on stock. We have posted pictures of the version with the black dial before, and thought some of you may be interested in comparing the two.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

 should be made without permission from the source.

Rolex Explorer II Ref. 216570. Photo is from the JK Watchstore

and is used with their permission. No republication of the same

 should be made without permission from the source.

So which strikes your fancy?
 

For me it is the white dial. Somehow I relate the Explorer II to Artic exploration, and white seems to be the appropriate color for that. Though admittedly, black is definitely the more functional one.

About Rolex. Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches and accessories founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing over 2000 watches per day. Rolex is the best known and most sought after watch brand in the world.

BaselWorld 2012: OMEGA Spacemaster-33

Ana-digi. It is rare for manufacturers of luxury Swiss watches to release digital or quartz watches. The main draw of these watches are their Swiss mechanical movements. Brietling has several analog digital watches in its collection. Omega joins this small group with the announcement at BaselWorld 2012 of the OMEGA Spacemaster-33.

OMEGA Spacemaster-33. The watch is mates analogue timekeeping hands with two LCD windows. The OMEGA Spacemaster-33 can keep track of two time zones, has an alarm, chronograph function and a perpetual calendar. You can keep up to ten logs of periods of elapsed time you measured with the chronograph including the date they were taken.  Four pushers and the crown, allow full control over the array of digital features. While all these features sound impressive, for a digital watch they are not. Casio and Suunto have digital watches with far more impressive features. This watch has no compass, barometer or altimeter. It has no GPS, cannot keep track of average speed traveled over time... you get the point.

The case itself is not impressive. It's water resistance rating is just up to 30 meters, so this takes this watch out of any serious sporting activities.

Don't get me wrong, I like innovation. But a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer was to enter the realm of digital watches, it should try to provide something a cut above the rest. Brietling has an Emergency transmitter built into its digital offering, which a built-in micro transmitter broadcasting at the 121.5 MHz aircraft emergency frequency. Following a crash or a forced landing, the user can broadcast a signal on which rescuers can home in. 

The OMEGA Spacemaster-33 gives you nothing special on the digitial end of the spectrum, and being a digital watch, defeats the very purpose why people may choose to buy an Omega in the first place.

About OMEGA SA. The forerunner of OMEGA was founded 1848, by Louis Brandt. The name OMEGA was first used in 1894. It was used as the name of one of the Louis Brandt brother’s watch movement calibers.

 

BaselWorld 2012: OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT

  

OMEGA unveiled at BaselWorld 2012 a new variant of its Seamaster Aqua Terra, the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT. As indicated by its name the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT is a dual time watch which can keep track of two different time zones.  The main hour, which rotates at the usual rate of once every 12-hours, is used to keep local time. A second hour hand with a red and white triangle head which completes one rotation every 24 hours, is use to keep track of the second time zone. Since it is reports "military" time it will also allow you to keep track of whether it is day or night in the second time zone.
 

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT. The Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT dial has the attractive "Teck Concept" dial, which is highlighted with vertical lines to resemble wooden decks on luxury boats. This new dial was first seen with the refresh of the Aqua Terra line-up in 2008. The case is 43 mm in diameter and available in 18 Ct red gold, stainless steel or, in a bicolor version in 18 Ct red gold and stainless steel. The watch is available with either a bracelet in the same metal as the watch case or with a black, brown or blue leather strap.

First dual time co-axial watch. The Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT is powered by the self-winding Co-Axial calibre 8605/8615 movement. This is the first of OMEGA Co-Axial movement to be equipped with a GMT complication. The movement is rated as a chronometer, meaning it was to tested to deviate by not more than +4 second or -6 seconds per day. A sapphire crystal on the screw-in caseback allows a clear view of the movement from the back of the watch.

The Co-Axial escapement in the OMEGA calibres is designed avoids the disturbing effects of contact between the balance-spring and the index pins. The result is reduced friction which means that there is almost no need for lubrication which results in Co-Axial calibres have long service intervals.

About OMEGA SA. The forerunner of OMEGA was founded 1848, by Louis Brandt. The name OMEGA was first used in 1894. It was used as the name of one of the Louis Brandt brother’s watch movement calibers.

 

BaselWorld 2012: Patek Phillipe World Time Ref. 5130/1G-010 and Ref. 5130/1R-001

Patek Phillipe World Time Ref. 5130/1G-010 and Ref. 5130/1R-001.  Patek Philippe announced two new of its World Time watch at BaselWorld 2012, the Ref. 5130/1G-010 in white gold and the Ref. 5130/1R-001 in rose gold. The new variants feature bracelets made using gold, the previous versions coming with leather straps.

5130/1G-010

Ref. 5130/1R-001

Patek's World Time watches features a rotating ring with the names of 24 cities inscribed on it. A second rotating ring has 24-hour markers. This is used to display time in different time zones. Local time is told by a standard hour and minute hand. Mechanically it has a self-winding movement.

The system works this way. If you look at the picture on top, the City of London is on top of the small red triangle. It means that the hour and minutes hands are representing the time in London. From the hour and minutes, the time is 10:07 a.m. If the time were 10:07 p.m. the number under the red arrow would be 22.

From the outer dial, you can check the times in different time zones. Under the label New York, the number displayed is 5, meaning that it is 5:07 a.m. in New York. Under the name Moscow, you see the number 13, meaning that it is 13:07 hours, or 1:07 p.m., in Moscow. In this way, the Ref. 5131 shows the time around the world in a glance.

The easiest to explain how this all works is to pretend we are setting the watch for the first time. If the user is based in London, the button at the 10 o'clock position should be pressed until the name of London appears at 10 o'clock. Each time the button is pressed the outer ring with the names of the cities moves one city at a time counter clockwise.

When the correct city (in this case London) is at the 12 o'clock, pull out the crown and adjust the hour and minute hands as you would a conventional watch. Lets say the time is now 10:00 am. Set the hands so that the hour hand points to the ten o'clock position. The inner ring would move so that the number 10 is located right below the name London, which means the watch is set to 10:00 a.m.

Reset the crown and the watch starts to run. How about Moscow, what time is it there? Under the name Moscow the number on the ring is 13, meaning 1300 hours or 1:00 p.m.

After an hour, the hour hand would advance once hour to read 11 o'clock. The inner ring would rotate counter clockwise so that the number 11 would be under the name London, meaning 1100 hours or 11 o'clock in the morning. Under the name Moscow, the number would now be 14, meaning 2:00 p.m.

Now lets say you wanted to change the hands of the watch so that it reflects the time in Moscow. Press the button three time until Moscow is at the 12 o'clock position instead of London. Pressing the three time button would have done the following:

1) Outer ring - Rotate the outer ring counter clockwise three times to go from London to Paris to Cairo to Moscow.

2) Inner ring - Rotate the outer ring counter clockwise three times so that the number at the 12 o'clock goes from 11 to 12 to 13 to 14.

3) Hour hands, the hour hand of the watch would jump forward three times from the 11 0'clock to the 12 0'clock to the 1 0'clock to the 2 0'clock.

With Moscow at the top of the bezel, the hour and minute hands would reflect the time in Moscow which is 2:00 p.m. How about London, well under the name London, the number is still 11, since both the name of the City and the 24 -hour ring rotated simultaneously. The number 11 under London means it is 11:00 a.m. in London.

The number under the name of a city is that time of that city. In this way, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5130 presents the time of 24 cities around the world, representing all 24 time zones all at the same time.

The watch as a 39.5 mm diameter case. Inside is Calibre 240 HU movement which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has a 48 hour power reserve.

About Patek Philippe. Patek Philippe and Co. was founded in Switzerland in 1851. It is acknowledged as one of the finest watchmaking companies in the world.

BaselWorld 2012: Rolex Sky-Dweller

Rolex Sky-Dweller. As speculated, Rolex has released a new watch bearing the name Sky-Dweller. From the teasers, many of us expected the watch would be a dual time watch, but I doubt if many expected this watch would also have the annual calendar complication. 

Features. The Rolex Sky-Dweller displays the local time using the main hour hand, and the second time zone is displayed by a rotating disc visible on the dial with a red triangle to mark Nothing too fancy about this, the second hour hand found in dual time watches is replaced by a rotating dial. We have seen this features in IWC dual time watches before.

In typical Rolex fashion the date is displayed under a cyclops lens at the 3 o'clock. The watch also displays the month. The are 12 windows located around the circumference of the dial, just outside the hour markers and the month is displayed via a dark colored marker under the window.  The  second time zone can rapidly set via a rotating “Ring Command Bezel". The use of the bezel to manipulate the movement was something we saw in the Rolex Yacht-Master II, and in that sense now becomes a new Rolex feature. The bezel is used to select the individual functions to be set, and then uses the crown to make the adjustments. 

The Sky-Dweller is also an annual calendar watch. The movement takes into account whether a month has 30 or 31 days so the date only has to be adjusted every 1st of March.

The movement features something Rolex calls SAROS. We will have to get back to you on that.

Case. The case is 42 mm in diameter and three variants are available: white gold, yellow gold or rose gold. The case is adorned by the familiar Rolex fluted bezel. The white and yellow gold cases are mated to a matching gold Oyster bracelet. The rose gold case, or what Rolex calls Everose, if fitted unto an elegant brown leather strap with a rose gold clasp.

I have some reservations about the aesthetics of this watch. It looks like an elegant Oyster Perpetual rather than following the rugged looking designs of the Rolex Professional series. Still, it is good to see Rolex break new ground.

About Rolex. Rolex SA is a Swiss manufacturer of wristwatches and accessories founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis. Rolex is the largest single luxury watch brand by far, producing over 2000 watches per day. Rolex is the best known and most sought after watch brand in the world.

SIHH 2012: Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM 00396.

Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM 00396. If you are looking for the flagship Panerai released at SIHH 2012, it has to be Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica PAM00396. This watch combines the dual time with the Tourbillon complication. Dual time is displayed in the usual Panera way. A second hour hand that rotates once every twelve hours is used, instead of the more common 24-hour hand. In order to determine whether it is day or night in the second time zone, a small dial at 3 oclock has a am/pm indicator.  

The watch does not have an open dial which shows the Tourbillion movement on its face. Insteas a small seconds dial, at 9 oclock, ontains an a series of dot markers, which is connected to the tourbillon and moves at twice the speed of the seconds hand, completing one revolution in 30 seconds.

What is a tourbillon? The tourbillon was invented in 1795 by Abraham-Louis Breguet. Mechanical timepieces are affected by gravity. In order to counter the effects of gravity, Abraham-Louis Breguet built a watch that counteracted gravity by rotating the balance wheel of a watch or clock through 360 degrees. This is called a tourbillon.

This is accomplished by mounting the escapement in a rotating frame, called a "carriage" which turns at regular intervals, usually once a minute. This rotation reduces the positional errors of the movement.

At that time almost Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon almost all watches were pocket watches which stayed in one position most of the time. The only time a pocket watch changes position is when it's taken out by the owner to check the time.

The effect of gravity on a watch or clock kept in one position all the time, like a pocket watch, is particularly noticeable on the escapement, especially the balance which rocks back and forth. This can lead to inaccuracies. Breuget's solution was the tourbillon.

Today, most tourbillons are found in wristwatches. People tend to move their arm as they go about their day, which provides the changes in position required to offset the effects of gravity on the watch movement. This negates the need for one a tourbillon. Today tourbillon watches are valued as a display of watchmaking prowess, in the same way complication watches are desirable.

Ceramica. The PAM 396 has a 48 mm diameter Luminor 1950 case with a synthetic ceramic based on zirconium powder which coating. This process creates a uniform and even matt black appearance, as well as ensuring excellent performance in terms of hardness, resistance to scratches, corrosive agents and high temperatures. The case is made from stainless steel and titanium.

Movement. Inside, is the built by Panerai P.2005 which produced 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a long 6-day power reserve. The movement has a sapphire crystal on the caseback allowing you to view the movement and power reserve indicator.

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: Officine Panerai Radiomir GMT - 8 Days Oso Rosso - 45 MM PAM00395

Special Editions. At SIHH 2012, Officine Panerai announced five Special Edition watches. All Panerai watches are manufactured in limited quantities, the Special Editions are manufactured in even more limited numbers, usually in the hundreds, and are manufactured only for a single year. In previous articles we already took a look at four of the 2012 Special Editions, the PAM 398, 399, 448 and 449.  The fifth Special Edition watch from Panerai for 2012 is the Radiomir GMT - 8 Days Oso Rosso - 45 MM PAM00395. Only 500 pieces of this watch are being produced.

Officine Panerai Radiomir GMT - 8 Days Oso Rosso - 45 MM PAM00395. The Panerai Radiomir GMT - 8 Days Oso Rosso is a dual time watch, but I suspect buyers would be more interested in the long eight day power reserve of the Panerai 2002/10 calibre movement, which is a more exclusive feature. A power reserve indicator is visible on the dial of the watch.

The second time zone is displayed in the now the manner that is now a trademark of most Panerai dual time watches, via a smaller second hour which rotates once every 12-hours, rather than the 24-hour hand found in most dual time watches. A day/night indicator located at the 9-o'clock position is used to tell you whether it is a.m. or p.m., in the second time zone.  The day/night indicator shares the same sub-dial as the running seconds. The final feature on the dial is a date display at the 3 o'clock.

As its name indicates, the watches 45 mm diameter case is made from Red Gold. The back of the case has a sapphire crystal case back which allows you to view the movement.

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

SIHH 2012: Officine Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM00441

Panerai dual time watches. One of the watches announced by Officine Panerai at SIHH 2012 is the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM 441. The PAM 441 is a dual time watch, made in the distinctive Panerai style. 

PAM 441

In most dual time watch, the main hour hand which rotates once every 12-hours is intended to display local time. A second smaller arrow tipped hand which rotates once every 24-hours is used to display the second time zone, normally in conjunction with with a second set of hour markers, like on Panerai's PAM 88 pictured below. 

urs,

PAM 88 - 24 secondary hand and 24-hour indicator on the out part of the dial

In the past few year Panerai has stopped using a second set of hour markers and instead have both the main and secondary hand rotate once every 12-hours, and have a day/night indicator used in conjunction with the second hour hand like on the PAM 270.

PAM 270 - 12 hour secondary hand with an AM/PM indicator

In 2009 Panerai released the P. 9001 calibre, which kept both the primary and second hands rotating every 12-hours but without the day/night indicator. This 12-hour hand for a second time zone without a day/night indicator has been subject of much debate. Some feel that the movement displays incomplete information while others say it is a simple matter of remembering whether the second time zone is the day before or day after. We won't try to resolve this issue for you. Either you find the missing feature acceptable or not.

PAM 441

Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Ceramica PAM 441. The PAM 441 is almost identical to the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic (PAM 320)  released in 2009. The main differences between the two is the new PAM 441 has a black ceramic coated steel case, the color of dial and the color of luminescent material on the hour markers and hands. The case back is made of black ceramic coated titanium.

In addition to the to the dual time feature, the P. 9001 calibre also features a longer than usual 3-day power reserve and an indicator at the back of the watch to show the remaining power reserve. The movement beats a 28,800 vibrations per hour.

PAM 441

PAM00438. A version of this watch on a steel bracelet has been around too, as the PAM 438.

PAM 438

About Panerai. Officine Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence, Italy by Giovani Panerai. Panerai was acquired over by Swiss watchmaker Richemont S. A. in 1997.

 

SIHH 2012: IWC Pilots Watch Worldtimer Ref. 3262

Keeping track of the worlds time. I am sure the IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer got its share of attention at SIHH 2012.

The IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer uses a pair of conventional hands to tell local time, and like the other new IWC Pilot's Watches released this year has a date window which displays three date numerals, the middle one being the current date. But what is impossible to ignore is the outer ring with the names of cities located around the globe, and the inner 24-hour ring.  

The inner ring which rotates once every 24-hours serves as a the 24 hour hand you find in many dual time watches. It can be set and independently from the main hands. 

It works this way. In the image above local time is 10:10. It is 10:10 p.m. in Dubai 6:10 P.M. in London, 12:10 PM in Mexico and 3:10 in the morning in Tokyo.

It's a big watch. IWC Pilot's Watch Worldtimer has a 45 mm diameter case. Inside is a still unspecified self winding movement with a 42 hour power reserve. 

Being a IWC Pilot' Watch is has the soft iron inner ring which helps it resist magnetism and a sapphire crystal glass that resists changes in air pressure.

About IWC. IWC or the the "International Watch Co. Schaffhausen" was founded by an American engineer from Boston, Florentine Ariosto Jones, in Schaffhausen, Switzerland in the year 1868. IWC Schaffhausen is notable for being the only major Swiss watch factory located in eastern Switzerland, as the majority of the well-known Swiss watch manufacturers are located in western Switzerland.