Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Identifying a Counterfeit Watch

We have written to previous articles on how to identify a fake Rolex and Hublot Big Bang. These articles may give you the impression that spotting a fake or counterfeit watch is very difficult. While the quality of replica watches has improved over time, the really good ones represent a very small percentage of the counterfeit watches in the market. The vast majority can be identified simply by comparing pictures of the original watch with the counterfeit. The only problem with this approach is finding detailed pictures of watches.

The subject of this article is a counterfeit or replica Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119G. The replica 5119G was being offered at a flea market at US$62.50. A bit of negotiation got the price down to US$45. Online the prices get can crazy. I have seen the exact same replica being offered by one site at US$56 and by another at US$185.

This real Patek Philippe Ref. 5119 model comes in cases made of 18 Ct. gold, either in white gold (Ref. 5119G), yellow gold (Ref. 5119J) or rose gold (Ref. 5119R). This may seem to be a good way to identify the fakes.Unfortunately it is hard to distinguish gold plated from gold without damaging the product. Well, at least I have a hard time. However, a comparison of the fake article with photographs of the genuine article will give you many tell tale signs that it is a fake.

Replica Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119R

A lot of rose gold Patek Philippe watches comes with brown leather straps. The manufacturer of this replica did not realize that the Patek Philippe 5119 in rose gold comes with a black leather strap. I do concede it might be possible to order this watch with a brown leather strap. So let us do some more examination.

The manufacturer of this replica did a good job in copying the genuine Patek Philippe 5119, taken pains to replicate the shape of the hands and markings on the dial. An examination of the second hand sub-dial at the 6 o'clock would show that the fake has light rings around in within the sub-dial while the genuine article does not.

Genuine article on the left and the fake on the right.
Click to view a larger image.

On closer examination the assembly of the hours and minutes hand and the length of the "tail" of the small seconds hand varies from the genuine article.

Genuine article on the left and the fake on the right.
Click to view a larger image.

Moving from the hands to the case, the inner wall of the case in the genuine article are a nice shiny gold, while in the replica, it is white, the same color as the dial.

Genuine article on the left and the fake on the right.
Click to view a larger image.

Noticeably, the fake is substantially ticker than the original article. Patek Philippe makes the slimmest of movements, something that Asian movements still cannot replicate. Since we are talking about the movement, lets flipping the watch on its back and see watch we have.

Genuine article on the left and the fake on the right.
Click to view a larger image.

The manufacturer of this replica got the six screws right, but that is where the similarity ends. From the back the genuine Patek's slimmer case become evident. The replica manufacturer took the time to engrave the name "Patek Philippe" the Calatrava cross and a few other marks on the back of the watch. Patek Philippe keeps theirs clean.

Onto the movement. Both watches have manual winding movements, with smooth sweeping seconds hand. But the Patek Philippe's calibre 215 PS movement is decidedly different from the low cost movement used in the replica.

Something strange I noticed. The marking Patek Philippe and the Calatrava cross are on the inner side of the buckle of the strap. I am not sure though if that is the way it is too in the genuine article. I have no picture to compare it with. Now, locating good pictures of a watch for comparison is hard.


In the end, best option to make sure you do not get a replica watch by mistake, get a watch from an Authorized Dealer. It is not always possible to do so, especially when buying one, a pre-owned one. A bit of research can go a long way.

1 comment:

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